DAY 166 AMMAN JORDAN


Walking through the city streets. Fresh bread ovens. Slushies on the streets.

This is our rest day. If we do nothing but eat sleep and jump in the pool that would be OK. No brief swim in the Dead Sea. No quick run to the Israeli border. No fast trip to Jerash. Petra was enough. Our US dollar does not go very far since the Jordan Dinar is tied to the Euro. We went on an early morning walk around the neighborhood of East Amman. the sun rises early and brightly like a desert sunrise of Arizona or Nevada or Palm Springs. The morning sunrise even has the same smell. Not many people were walking. Everyone drives. Men were hanging out in front of some markets talking, greeting. The Jordanian men greet is interesting to watch. We purchased 25 cent slushies on the streets. I did not picture slushies on the street of Amman. We passed a fresh wood-fired bread making place – looked and smelled wonderful, but we had just eaten breakfast so on we must go. Downtown was too far to walk and I did not feel like taking a taxi to downtown, so we turned and headed back home via the big Mosque and catholic church combination block. The street were so much more uncrowded than any other place we have been. At our hotel – Abjar Hotel – we jumped in the pool and played the afternoon away. I chose the Abjar hotel because of the price, the pool, and the close location to the JETT bus terminal – walking distance if you know the area – 5 minutes. I found a wonderful tasty restaurant Gaithe – up the street. Yummy hummus. Tabouli. Falafels. Oils. Good to be eating food that is not so spicy and has more oils. Time to pack for the morning.

DAY 165 PETRA JETT BUS TO AMMAN

Another exciting day in the ruins of Petra. A night entry into Amman on the Jett Bus. Viena is an amazing little traveler. Ezra is a good sleeper.

How would you like to spend September 11 if you were in the middle East. We visited Petra for one more day and then took the JETT bus back to Amman Jordan. We started the morning with breakfast at the hotel – only us. Then we went on a walk to the playground – only us. Some workers came to clean the park. We had beautiful desert views of Petra. Ezra and Viena loved the tall spiral slides of the playground. After checking out, we attempted Petra one more time. We hiked all the way to the Treasury and just hung out like the ancient Nabataeans surround by local Bendoin and their working children, their working donkeys, camels and horses. Some little girls about 8 years old were playing with Ezra but then were told to go back to work selling postcards or jewelry. Just part of the whole Petra experience. The heat of the day was upon us. We stayed in the shade of the tall rock canyon walls – the same shade that the ancient Nabataeans sat under so many years ago. Sun Rocks Shade Earth. A timeless equation that does not change. The same shade. The same shade. Chariots moving fast through the SIQ. We had only to eat and wait for the JETT bus to bring us back to AMMAN. The JETT bus experience was nice. Spoke to a young 18-year-old Jordanian who shared some secrets of Arabic life. We noticed on the streets that Jordanians like to tell stories in a soft tone like everything is a secret. We were stopped twice on the bus by Jordanian officials to check passports.

DAY 164 PETRA PLAYGROUND


We were able to visit Petra and a playground all in one day. One long hot day. We climbed all the way back to the Monastery. The day went by to fast to really know what happened. So glad we decided to drive south from Amman. One more day.

Our day to explore Petra. Our room included breakfast. In the huge dining area with 20 tables, one was prepared just for us. Only us. The breakfast was wonderful coming from the scanty and spicy foods of Sri Lanka. Nice breads. Yummy Hummus. We packed the extra for a lunch picnic. 5JD for the Taxi to the Petra Gate. Petra cost 110 JD for all of us for 2 days. Kids are free! We were one of the first people in the Petra Park. We followed another couple who mentioned they were walking straight to the Monastery because the walk is long and you must start early or pay later by walking in the afternoon heat. We were offered horse rides, mule rides, and donkey rides, but said NO to all. Well, on the way out I paid 3JD for both Ezra and Viena to ride donkeys, just for the photo. We also paid 5JD for the 3 of us to ride camels in front of the Treasury. Being up on the camel was pretty scary, especially since Ezra seemed like he had a difficult time holding onto the donkey and now he was up at least 8 feet on a camel back alone. But I love he camel photo Dwana took of us in front of the Treasury. So many sights to see. Such a nice morning, before the heat, and before most of the hawkers were up to try and sell you things. Much like the walk through the Narrows of Zion National Park without all the water and with big rock carvings of tombs and facades from long ago. We had a picnic of bread and cheese outside the Monastery before walking back down. Nice to start early since none of the market people were selling their stuff. This was not the case on our return trip. We had to practice saying “No thank you”. We did have tea (1JD) with a Bedouin woman who had a place with a great view of a canyon. We were not prepared for all the little children employed in this practice of selling items to the tourists. We saw a boy about Ezra’s age sitting in the hot sun trying to sell rocks. The day was very warm by the time we finished in the early afternoon and the swimming pool felt great and was mandatory and we were the only ones in the pool.

DAY 163 JORDAN JUST IN TIME


One of our best travels days yet. Here is how it all went down. Woke up around 4:20AM to finishing packing. Pickup from tuk-tuk driver at 05:30AM. They do not allow tuk-tuk drivers to go all the way into the airport, so we had to walk to last 500 meters. At least we were at the correct airport. Check in no problem. Found a money changer to change all my leftover Rupees (6000) into dollars ($41). Everyone is feeling good. Smuggled 3 liters of water onto the plane. Nice waiting area. The flight touched down in Al Ain … Look it up – I had to. … Sandy everywhere. … Everywhere. Miles and miles. Touched down in Amman Jordan. Jordan Visas ($120 for the four of us). Cell phone connection ($15). Found ATM. Found taxi driver holding FOLEY sign. Hit the road to PETRA. This is where the dream becomes fuzzy. We are the only guests at this hotel. Tomorrow we walk through time, we walk through Petra.

Wonder where we woke up. A wonder. We woke up in Negombo Sri Lanka and went to sleep in Wadi Musa Petra Jordan. All in a day. What do I remember? The darkened Tuk-tuk ride in the morning. Tuk-tuks do not have very strong headlights which make seeing people and bicycles on the side of the rode difficult in the darkness of the early early morning. All of our bags barely fit in the tuk-tuk, but tuk-tuks are usually half the price of a car taxi. The downside we found out was that tuk-tuks are not allowed in the airport – at least today they were not allowed. We had to walk the final quarter mile to the airport. Check in and check out of Sri Lanka – no problem. Bye-bye Sri Lanka. The flight to Jordan was like no other flight I have been on. So much sand outside covering the Earth, being the Earth, sandy Earth … as far as the eye could see, and from our vantage point we could see a long way. Like an ocean of sand. We flew up along the Western coast of India and then landed in Al-Ain, United Emirates. Barren lands. All day long we flew and the sandy landscapes rarely changed. We touched down in Queen Alia airport in Amman Jordan. Now the logistics started: mobile phone plan($20), atm to withdraw Jordanian Diners, and our Jordanian Visa ($120). I had pre-arranged for a taxi driver to meet us at the airport and drive us the 3 hours to Wadi Musa – Petra. All going smoothly. Ezra fell asleep quickly in the taxi and was down for the count. Ezra did not wake up when the taxi driver took a break. When we told the taxi driver we were staying at the Hotel Grand View, he called his taxi friend in Wadi Musa who replied, “The Hotel Grand View – you are going to be the only one staying up there!”. In our travels, we have stayed at some off the map places where we have been the only one using the pool or there have been very few other guests at the hotel, but Dwana and I were truly shocked when we arrived at the huge Hotel Grand View in Wadi Musa and we were “the only ones staying at the hotel”.! Still hard to believe that we were the only guests staying at this 5-star hotel on the upper hills of Wadi Musa overlooking Petra. We arrived just in time for sunset and a plunge in the deep blue pool. We are in the desert – no doubt. The greenery of southeast Asis – Borneo, Thailand, Malaysia, Bali and Sri Lanka disappear quickly behind us – long forgotten – like yesterdays breakfast. Being in the desert, being alone at a 5-star resort, being in the middle East with the sun setting over Israel … so different, so strange, so surreal. This entrance into Arabia in a beautiful place – a desert place – and we are familiar with the desert. In the West, the sun was setting, and I pictured the Holy Lands of Palestine, Israel, Egypt and wondered how far the Mediterranean Sea was.